Bao Dai, the 13th and Last Emperor of Vietnam's Summer Palace

Our plan today was to visit the Dalat Cathedral and to then go to the Emperor's Summer Palace but plans are made to be changed. Our Grab had gone only a short distance along the main road when we came to a standstill. Lots of police were present. Traffic was at a standstill and a detour was needed. Of course the detour then became clogged with traffic so, after sitting still for fifteen minutes, I asked the driver via the Translate App, if he could take us to the Palace instead. A U turn was then executed and we were off to the Palace. At this point I got a message on the Grab app noting that we were off the registered route and asking if I was safe. Well done Grab! No wonder Grab is a trusted app in several countries.

Path at Bao Dai's Palace

The Grab dropped us off outside the impressive iron gates of the Summer Palace which is situated on a hill in a very pleasant, leafy part of the city. In front of us was a beautiful park with a wide path lined with what looked like melaleuca trees towering over neat, colourful flower gardens.

So many different flowers - and a deer

 The antique rickshaw was parked beside the ticket office was for show only, no rides. We would have to walk! The day was sunny and comfortably warm, so walking in this tranquil park was going to be very pleasant.

rickshaw at Emperor's Palace, Dalat

There was a Korean women's tour group visiting and I had been amused on arrival to see them walking in single file after their tour guide who was carrying a pole with his company's flag as if being a flag bearer at the Olympic Games. Now they were scattered around the gardens, taking photos and having a good time. To my surprise I found myself being ushered firmly into a photo with them. I don't like having my photos taken but there was nothing I could do without causing offence so, after obliging,  I returned the compliment [?] and took one of them.

Emperor Bao Dai's Palace and Garden

I was surprised to see that the palace was far from palatial and, once we were inside, found that it had actually been built between 1933 - 1938 by a French aristocrat, Robert Clement Bougery, for his own use and had only 25 rooms. Bao Dai apparently bought it from him and lived here from until 1945.

Ground Floor

The ground floor was the reception area where foreign dignitaries and were entertained while the upper floor was the Emperor's private domain. After his first wife left to go to the ancient capital and centre of the Nguyen Dynasty, Hue, to live he continued living here with his second wife. 

The Nguyen Family Tree

The palace has been renovated but still contains memorabilia from the Emperor's time. A very interesting audio, delivered in Vietnamese, English and Korean provided information about the Nguyen lineage and history.

Throne room

Despite this royal life, presumably full of privilege, Bao Dai seems to me to be a bit of a sad character. Sent to France at the tender age of nine, he was only thirteen when his father Khai Dinh died and he became Emperor. He continued his education in France returning in 1936, aged twenty, to ascend the throne and to marry his first wife with whom he produced three daughters and two sons. In his lifetime he had eight wives with four of them being Vietnamese, three French and one Chinese. He had a total of thirteen children. Wow! In the twentieth century too!

As Emperor, he was regarded as being ineffectual and a puppet of the French. After the French were chased out by the Japanese in 1945 his influence and power became even less. When the Japanese were defeated in World War II, Bao Dai was ousted via a allegedly rigged referendum organised by a United States supported Ngo Dinh Diem. After this forced abdication, Bao Dai was given a nominal position of advisor for the North of the Country and Diem took up residence at this Summer Palace. While on a diplomatic mission to China Bao Dai seized his chance and fled, firstly to Hong Kong and later to France where he lived without ever returning to Vietnam until his death in 1997. 

After lunch at the cafe we took a leisurely stroll around the back of the palace and garden, noting the heliport installed for Diem who also had a secret tunnel connecting it to the palace. Some say that the entrance is hidden behind a bookshelf.

Garden at Emperor's Palace, Dalat

We were particularly intrigued by this bright blue flower and to learn that it is related to the common runner bean. Strongylodon macrobotrys, the jade or emerald vine, is native to the Phillipines and grows in countries such as Sri Lanka too. I'm thinking that it will do well in our garden at home too.

the Jade or emerald vine, Strongylodon macrobotrys

Later in our trip we will be in Hue, the centre of the Nguyen Dynasty, where we will visit the Tomb of Khai Dinh - Bao Dai's father's tomb. Bao Dai's own tomb will not be such a grand one. He was buried in Paris. 

Thus ended the Nguyen Dynasty.

The Pongour Waterfall, the Linh An Pagoda, a cricket appetiser and a memorable restaurant

 The drive to Pongour waterfall, 55 km south of Da Lat, was an hour's drive along the same road we had taken from the airport. We then branched off onto a smaller road through a couple of towns and then again onto a narrow road through the countryside. This road had only a few houses and went through banana, coffee plantations, fields of corn, cabbages and tomatoes. This area is very much a food growing bowl. We saw a few bullocks, smaller and browner than those in Sri Lanka but no cows. I'm wondering where they all are considering the fresh milk we bought in Ho Chi Minh was from 'Dalat farms." 

The terrain was flat and my maps indicated that we were near the waterfall. There was a river on our left, the Da Nhim river. That must be the source of the waterfall I thought, but where was the "fall" aspect. Ahh !! We came to a decorated, barred gate and an attendant quickly appeared as apparently we had to buy a ticket to allow the car to drive down to the waterfall. VND150,000 did the trick and we were soon driving down a dusty road passing sweaty walkers along the way. That we could take the car down was a blessing for us.

Pongour Waterfall, Vietnam

The waterfall was really something, even in the dry season! With a fall from seven levels, it was also very wide. People were scrambling over the rocks to get into a good position for selfies. Not being agile enough to attempt to get closer, I planted my feet firmly on a big rock and took a few photos. Impressive as it is today, I can imagine how it will look with a bit of rain. The whole area would be covered and no one would be able to swim in the pools, as people are doing today. 

I had read a legend of this Pongour Waterfall. I always love to learn any legends of places I visit so here it is! In ancient times there was a very beautiful girl who, together with her four rhinoceroses, had special powers that she used to protect the people of the villages in her area by doing things such as diverting floodwaters, moving mountains and the like. When she died her long hair formed this Pongour waterfall, creating long sparkling cascades. The rocks at the bottom represent the horns of her rhinoceroses with Pongour being the indigenous word for rhinoceros horn. Nice story, I think.

We then took a walk around the area. There were a few birds chirping and flitting around. Away from the sound of falling water it was quiet and still. 

around Pongour waterfall, near Da Lat, Vietnam

We then took to the road again, heading for the Linh An Pagoda. This road was similar to the last one with a few more houses. Food production was very much in evidence as before although on this road the houses mostly had vegetable gardens from the fence to the front door. In addition, flowers bloomed from earthen pots or hanging baskets. Jacaranda and bougainvillea trees were dropping their petals creating a small carpet of colour on the roadside. We loved seeing this!

Even as we passed through small villages, I noticed that there was no one standing or sitting around doing nothing. That was significant to me as in other countries in this part of the world it's common to see men especially whiling away the day doing nothing.

Soon we left the flat ground and began climbing steadily up the gentle hills. In the far distance I noticed a tall shiny, white structure standing on the top of the hill dominating the landscape. As we got nearer it revealed itself as the Buddha statue at the Linh An Pagoda.

This female Buddha statue was built in the 1990s and is said to be the tallest one in Vietnam. 

 Linh An Pagoda, Vietnam

The shrine room with its bright red roof tiles is guarded on both sides by a cement dragon.

Linh An Pagoda, Vietnam

There were few people around so I removed my shoes and went inside for some moments of contemplation and appreciation of the serene shrine room.  We then walked around the grounds of the pagoda enjoying the gardens and sitting down for a while  in quiet contemplation in this peaceful place. 

Linh An Pagoda, near Dalat, Vietnam

Linh An Pagoda

Linh An Pagoda

We then walked around the Lady Buddha - an interesting concept I've not met anywhere else. You can apparently climb up inside this statue and see art work however we did not do this. From the raised base of the statue you can see and hear the famous Elephant Waterfall. It is currently closed to all visitors since an accident there two years ago.

Elephant Waterfall, near Dalat

We had very much enjoyed our visit to the waterfall and Pagoda and decided to return to Dalat, now just thirty kilometres away. We have four more days here and can take things at a leisurely pace so back in the car we went. 

We hadn't gone far - into a small town - when the driver suddenly pulled up and parked outside a small, dark, shack like building. Come, come, he beckoned. Wondering what this was all about I looked around and saw a dilapidated sign saying "Cricket Farm." I'd heard that there were cricket farms in Dalat so, interest piqued,  in we went.

The first thing I saw in the gloomy yard was a huge surprise . . . yes

a very sad, docile crocodile

This disgusted me. It made no move as we walked through to an even gloomier shed. The only explanation I can think to explain its docility would be that it may have been drugged. I was appalled. 

cricket farming

By now, all we wanted to do was to get out of this smelly, fly ridden place but as we ran out a lady appeared with a small basket of brown things, toothpicks and chilli sauce. Cooked crickets. "For you to try," we were told. Sam ran for the door but I thought "Why not. Just one." What with climate change causing food production problems people may need to change their diet so . . .  to be open to new foods would be a good idea.

Cricket snack

I had just the one. Warm, sweet and crunchy. Not a new choice of a snack. Of course there was a fee to pay.

A short distance down the road the driver again pulled up and parked the car between the usual pile of scooters and motorbikes. " Lunch," he announced. "Local food." Great idea. I, at least, was hungry after my one cricket appetiser.

Great idea, it was! I have never seen a restaurant like it. After walking through a sparsely furnished space we found ourselves crossing a Japanese type bridge over a free form style pond full of large carp, spouting statues and beautiful flora of many sorts. Then came an amazing dining room, so full of noisy, happy families enjoying the food on overloaded tables. Our driver found us a corner on one of the long tables, brought a server with the menus and then left us to order our lunch. Everything was in Vietnamese, the staff spoke only Vietnamese so we chose by picture. I have never had such tasty spring rolls anywhere else. I can't remember what else we ate. I was too busy looking at the decor of the restaurant - flowers, plants, trees, statues, waterfall . . . simply amazing!

As we were leaving the Manager came running to say "Hello." He had lived in Melbourne and worked in a restaurant there for a number of years.

Historic train station and Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Da Lat

It's Spring in Da Lat in March with the highest temperature average of 27C. It felt much hotter than that when we awoke to our sun filled apartment so we were in no hurry to leave the aircon and spent time catching up on emails and creating a list of places we wanted to see. Today, we decided, we would go to the historic train station and take the tourist train to the Linh Phouc Pagoda.

Spring in Da Lat

On arrival at the train station we were stopped by the gatekeeper to pay an entrance fee which was a surprise. The station stood somewhat majestically behind a wide garden and lawn. It hasn't rained here since before December and the lawn was a sad, thinly covered burnt grass.

Ga Da Lat

Ga Da Lat and the railway line linking it with Saigon was built by the French rulers between 1932 and 1938 and is the first significant structure built in the area by the French. As such, it has been identified as an historical monument. The trip between Saigon, Ho Chi Minh, took about half a day which made Da Lat a popular place in the cool for French colonialists to holiday.

Train timetable to Linh Phouc Pagoda, Dalat

With no time to purchase tickets, we were told to quickly board the train as it was going to depart in one minute. On we clambered to find that almost all the seats were occupied by a couple of tour parties. Korean, we found out when we conversed with them via the Translate app. Mostly women having fun together. 

Tourist train, Dalat

The line to the pagoda is only 7km and runs very close to houses along the way. I could have put my arm out the window and plucked a flower from the many hanging baskets that adorned the porches and fences. It sped up a bit when it came to a horticultural area. Here massive shade houses containing all kinds of vegetables - cabbages, corn, tomatoes, beans as well as sunflowers, chrysanthemums, and many other flowers covered the hillsides.

Horticulture houses, Dalat

The Vietnamese sign, Nam Mo The Am Bo Tat, at the top of this building translates to Dreaming of a Warm World it Sits On. It's an impressive building and I wonder if it is a retreat or meditation centre

See the sign at the top of this building

waiting for the train to pass

Dalat city has wide boulevards courtesy of the French, however when we got out into the suburbs lanes even narrower than this one were common.

It was a 400m walk for us to the Linh Phuoc Pagoda while the tour groups got a bus ride. The parking area was full of buses coming and going.  People crammed the doorway. Shoes were piled up. It was hot. That was a bit too much for balance challenged me so I contented myself with looking around the exterior of the building.

Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Da Lat

This pagoda is famous for its decorative mosaics including the resident dragon being made out of bottle tops and the heavy bell decorated by broken rice bowls. It's a relatively new pagoda being built from 1949 - 1952.

On our return to the station we enjoyed a much needed coffee, learning that Vietnam is the second largest coffee producing country in the world. 

Weightloss coffee beans, Da Lat

Several types of coffee beans were on sale. I thought I needed to purchase the Weight loss Lovers beans but left the Smoker's beans to someone else.

Dalat - City of Eternal Spring

Da Lat is the reason we are in Vietnam. It has taken us sixteen years since we saw a documentary highlighting the beauty of the mist shrouded hills, wide, rushing waterfalls, serene lakes and vegetable and flower farming. Those years have changed both Da Lat and ourselves with Da Lat's population growing from around 86,000 in 2008 to 197,000 in 2023 with corresponding systemic development and urbanisation while we have lost some physical ability and are unable to get to some of the waterfalls or to do the walks in the pine forests. Nevertheless, there is much that we can see, do and enjoy so let's get out there!

Da Lat is only 200km north west of Ho Chi Minh, Saigon. You can get there by bus however we took the more comfortable thirty five minute flight. Of course it wasn't that quick when you factor in the more than three hours from hotel to boarding the plane. 

The airport seemed to be quite new and modern and once our fellow passengers got their bags and left, very empty. Our bags were last off the plane - that's what happens when you are first to check in. There was a taxi desk right beside the baggage belt so I booked a "small car" to our hotel more than thirty kilometres away for VND145,000  AUD8.70. The small car turned out to be not so small and the metre ticked over to VND420,000, AUD25.00. Still a ridiculously small charge for such a distance. [The driver did not ask us to increase our pre payment and cheerily took our bags up the steps to hotel and smiled his goodbyes.]

Leaving the airport, we were immediately cruising along a four lane expressway. The thirty kilometre road had a wide median strip that bloomed with different kinds of flowers and small shrubs the entire stretch. Roses, hydrangeas, chrysanthemums, bougainvillea to name a few. Even better than Singapore, I thought. Da Lat is known as the City of Eternal Spring because of its temperate climate. It's also the City of Flowers, well named, I think.

On check in to our apartment we were told that, as we were staying six nights, we had been upgraded to a two bedroom one. That was great with more space to unpack and create a home for almost a week. It was not so great when we came down to go to a supermarket and were told, in an offhand way, that because we were upgraded, the owner of the property had, to avoid paying a commission I believe, cancelled our booking with the booking platform. I was soon contacted by the booking platform to check that I had made the cancellation so I did not appreciate being put in an awkward position.

Da Lat supermarket fresh fish

Off we went to the biggest supermarket I've been in for a long time! It's located underground in a complex with restaurants, cinemas, indoor playgrounds and other shops at Lam Vien Square. Later we realised that in the evenings this is the place families, couples and friends come to hang out, fly kites and skate around.

Lam Vien Square, Da Lat

Laden with snacks, French pastries and fruit, we took a Grab back to the apartment where we relaxed and planned our first day of exploring this flowered city in the hills.

We're in Vietnam! Hello Ho Chi Min!

 After a longish flight, standing in line at Immigration desks is not that enjoyable, especially when you choose the slowest moving line, so exiting the Arrivals Hall to see our transport there to greet us was a relief. 

We were soon on our way to our hotel and having our first experience of Ho Chi Minh traffic. Motorbikes. Seemingly tens of thousands of them dominating the roads. Get a call while you are riding? No problem. Answer it. Text message? Read it and tap in an answer at the lights. What an income revenue that would be for the Australian police!

Ho Chi Minh scooters

We were scarcely in the door at the Amanaki Saigon Boutique Hotel when we were welcomed with cool drinks and an assurance that our room was ready for us. Breakfast, we were told, would be available until 10am. Great! It was now almost 7am so we would have time to shower and have a rest. That we did and, after breakfast at 9.30am, we decided to rest again until the afternoon. As the only reason we were in Ho Chi Minh was to accommodate our flights into and out of Vietnam, sightseeing was a low priority. Although March is not the hottest time of the year in this city, with the saturating humidity the high 30s C are just a bit too much for us, despite living in a similar climate.

Refreshed by a four hour sleep we decided to find one of the markets to buy some shorts. Just navigating from the car around the crowded parked motorbikes on the path up to the hotel, I could see that my light coloured, trusty leather lace ups were going to get some rough treatment, so cheap knockabout shoes were needed too.

Standing in the heat outside our hotel I booked my first Grab. These are the Ubers of some Asian countries and you can even get motorbike Grabs in Vietnam where the motorbike is King of the Road. Within two minutes we were on our way to Saigon Square, one of the famous markets.

Saigon Square market

Saigon Square was typical of such markets we've been in elsewhere in Asia and we rightly guessed that most of the garments and shoes would be upstairs. Finding the right shorts - below the knee and with cargo pockets, was not easy. Pause to look and the sales pressure came on so I soon went into scan mode while Sam had to withdraw from a sales woman's clutches. Just as we were about to give up the search he found what he was looking for and the haggling began. Halve what the asking price is and start from there. Don't go over 60% of the asking price has been our usual rule. Unfortunately we had been all over the market and these were the only suitable shorts we'd seen so Sam surrendered at 70%. Then it was time to look for my shoes. That was a far easier purchase.

Hot and getting tired now, we decided to go over the road to the more upmarket and airconditioned Saigon Centre. That meant first dodging the guys who wanted to clean our shoes and the women trying to put some type of food into our mouths, getting through the parked motorbikes on the footpath and then crossing the road.

Crossing the road. Yes. Follow someone else or be like a local is the best way to tackle this event, so the travel blogs say. No one else looked like crossing so we were on our own. 

Pick your moment to step out, walk steadily without any faltering and the traffic will weave around you, I had read. So, grabbing Sam's arm to keep him with me - he was somewhat bemused by the stream of bikes and cars - I did just that. Off we went across the wide intersection and reached the other side. Success! Elation flowed over me! Now to find some airconditioned cold drinks .

Down to the basement level of Saigon Place we went in search of cool drinks and a snack. We were soon sitting comfortably enjoying French pastries, fresh coconut water and pineapple juice and watching the world eating, drinking and socialising. 

Basement Saigon place restaurants and food

Outside we go in search of a Grab. It's hot. Wearingly hot. I'm thankful for a blogger's tip to have a small cloth to mop up your eyes. A face washer does the trick and I'm pleased I packed several. They are going to be needed. 

We Grab back to our hotel and wait until the sun departs and the atmosphere is cooler before going in search of dinner. Night seems to bring everyone out on the street to eat. 

We give the bars and pizza shop a miss, looking for Vietnamese food.  Kindergarten sized tables and low plastic stools have suddenly appeared and are soon occupied by diners. I can't manage to get down that low so we hesitate and are promptly ushered by the sidewalk cook into the building at the back. It's airconditioned!  And has normal, clean tables and chairs. Great! 

We get the menu and order Tho Da Lon and Tho Da Nhe. When it is delivered to our table from the street kitchen it is a boiling bowl of soup, a plate of thinly sliced beat and some herbs and spices. We quickly add the meat to the soups, sprinkle the spices and stir. 

Tho Da Lon

We're already enjoying Vietnam. Sleep comes quickly after a long and satisfying day.

Vietnam holiday - getting organised

We had been wanting to visit Vietnam since 2008 but the slow and tedious visa process put us off and we visited other countries in the region that had visa on arrival or easier facilities. I would occasionally flick to the Vietnam Forum when on Trip Advisor and, in August 2023, I was happy to note that the visa process had been simplified and I could now obtain a visa online. 

https://www.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn/web/guest/trang-chu-ttdt

The above link is the official Government website that leads to a visa for Australians at the cost of USD25. 

At about the same time, Vietjet, the country's low cost airline, introduced direct Brisbane to Ho Chi Minh flights. All the ducks were lining up and just about quacking! No excuses! We would be going to Vietnam real soon!

Some serious research followed. I knew where in Vietnam we wanted to go so researched the weather and climate history for each location and decided that March was the month that was most likely to be comfortable for us. That information sent me to www.vietjetair.com

The booking process was easy with four class options. Business class gave simply everything, including private transport from the terminal to the plane, 18kg carry on and 80kg check in bags [insane - who wants that allowance?] for just under AUD2000. [no airbridges for Vietjet in Vietnam - bus to and from the terminals to the plane] Skyboss was AUD200 cheaper with less baggage allowances but still huge. Then there were the Deluxe and Eco classes. Eco was 7kg carry on allowance and nothing else for AUD208. I selected the Deluxe level with 10kg carry on, a big 40kg check in, seat selection for AUD364 per person - one way.

Our itinerary was Ho Chi Minh to accommodate both the flight destination and proximity to Dalat, a thirty-five minute flight away. We were not interested in staying in a huge city and have previously been on the Mekong in Laos and Cambodia and could do without the heat and mosquitos of the Mekong Delta. 

From Dalat we would fly to Danang - Hoi An, take the train to Hue then fly to Hanoi. I really wanted to depart Vietnam from Hanoi however that would have involved multiple stops in different countries so I elected to go back to Ho Chi Minh for a couple of days for our departure. I always allow at least two nights at our departure point to allow for unforeseen events. This has proven wise on more than one occasion.

Taking note of all the advice and warnings about applying for visas on Trip Advisor, I lodged our via applications a month before our departure date. You need to state the date you want your visa to start and also the end date. As you MUST depart Vietnam before or on your stated departure date.  I have had the experience of having to delay my flight home due to illness so I extended our stay for an extra week only for the visa, and wondering if I should have been even more generous. 

Happily our visas came through within the stated 3 - 5 working days.

Realistically, as octogenarians, we need way more time to get around to see the sights and enjoy travel experiences than we did even ten years ago. Our itinerary reflected that reality and, apart from Ho Chi Minh at the start and end of our trip, I allowed a week, including a travel day, at each of our destinations, Dalat, Danang - Hoi An, Hue and Hanoi.

How was the flight? Great! The day before departure I checked the seating on Manage My Booking and noted that there appeared to be a lot of unbooked seats so I moved our seats back to where there were several rows of empty seats. The result was that we ended up with a row to ourselves and could stretch out and sleep. [Vietjet also offers a "spare seats beside you" for a small fee at check in. Worth the money if the plane looks full.]

Vietjet landing in Ho Chi Minh

Still here!

 While it's five years since I posted on this blog, I have continued to read posts by the people I follow. For some reason I am unable to post comments. Maybe if I wake up my own blog the problem will be solved.

Five years. Good times. Sad times. Happy times. Anxious times. Frustrating times. Fun times. Loving times. Thankful times. Family times. Couple times. In other words, living normal times.

"Getting old is not for the faint hearted," is an overused saying. But true, I concede. " I AM NOT OLD. I AM 21 WITH YEARS OF EXPERIENCE," is the sign I picked up on my final trip to New Zealand last year. 

That was my fifth trip during 2023. The one when I held my younger brother as he quietly left his life after very many years of terrible health that challenged his will to live. Eventually he decided it was time to leave, so he did just that, after waiting for me to fulfil my promise to come to be with him as he gently let go of his life. 

On my penultimate trip to support him through a crisis he had held me and, through tears, had said that I had taken care of him when he was a baby and now, here I was taking care of him at the end of his life. As the eldest of a large family, I was the mother from the fourth child down. Something that, as an adult, was far from my own thoughts but not from his or another sibling's memory. I was just six years older than him.

As the eldest child of a large, unhappy family, I bore a lot of responsibility for taking care of my siblings and was held responsible for any of their behaviours. In the dark times my mantra was " The sun always comes up tomorrow." Now, seven decades later, I realise how powerful holding on to that mantra was. And continues to be so.

So, now after the sun has risen six more times, my husband of fifty seven years and I will embark on the most complex holiday of our lifetime. One month in Vietnam. Complex because we are now both physically challenged and it seems half of our 14 kg packed baggage consists of medicines and emergency snacks. And my walking stick.

I ask myself if I am crazy to take a month long holiday in a country that, according to the travel experts on Trip Advisor, appears to be more challenging to travel around than any other country we've been to in the region. A country where many local tours have an upper age limit of 75 or 80. 

I'm not fainthearted, so when the sun comes up in a few days we'll be heading to the airport in an uber, armed with those tricky to get visas, a flexible itinerary which includes an intention to visit four places, each for a week, taking each day as it comes, said medicines and emergency diabetic snacks, travel insurance, and loads of information of private tour/transport providers who will hopefully disregard the upper age limits of advertised tours.

Getting excited for our first major overseas trip since we snuck back into the country the day before the covid borders shut Australia for a very long time.

Hello, Vietnam!